Post by trinitydobes on Aug 13, 2011 16:47:10 GMT -5
Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test (P.A.T)
Reprinted with Permission by Wendy Volhard
Wendy Volhard’s Puppy Aptitude Test © 1981, 2000, 2005
HOW TO TEST
Here are the ground rules for performing the test:
The testing is done in a location unfamiliar to the puppies. This does not mean they have to taken away from home. A 10-foot square area is perfectly adequate, such as a room in the house where the puppies have not been.
The puppies are tested one at a time.
• There are no other dogs or people, except the scorer and the tester, in the testing area
• The puppies do not know the tester.
• The scorer is a disinterested third party and not the person interested in selling you a puppy.
• The scorer is unobtrusive and positions him or herself so he or she can observe the puppies’ responses
without having to move.
• The puppies are tested before they are fed.
• The puppies are tested when they are at their liveliest.
• Do not try to test a puppy that is not feeling well.
• Puppies should not be tested the day of or the day after being vaccinated.
• Only the first response counts!
Top Dog Tips: During the test, watch the puppy’s tail. It will make a difference in the scoring whether the tail
is up or down.
The tests are simple to perform and anyone with some common sense can do them. You can, however, elicit
the help of someone who has tested puppies before and knows what they are doing.
1. Social attraction - the owner or caretaker of the puppies places it in the test area about four feet from the
tester and then leaves the test area. The tester kneels down and coaxes the puppy to come to him or her by
encouragingly and gently clapping hands and calling. The tester must coax the puppy in the opposite
direction from where it entered the test area. Hint: Lean backward, sitting on your heels instead of leaning
forward toward the puppy. Keep your hands close to your body encouraging the puppy to come to you
instead of trying to reach for the puppy.
2. Following - the tester stands up and slowly walks away encouraging the puppy to follow. Hint: Make sure
the puppy sees you walk away and get the puppy to focus on you by lightly clapping your hands and using
verbal encouragement to get the puppy to follow you. Do not lean over the puppy.
3. Restraint - the tester crouches down and gently rolls the puppy on its back and holds it on its back for 30
seconds. Hint: Hold the puppy down without applying too much pressure. The object is not to keep it on
its back but to test its response to being placed in that position.
4. Social Dominance - let the puppy stand up or sit and gently stroke it from the head to the back while you
crouch beside it. See if it will lick your face, an indication of a forgiving nature. Continue stroking until
you see a behavior you can score. Hint: When you crouch next to the puppy avoid leaning or hovering over
the puppy. Have the puppy at your side with both of you facing in the same direction.
Top Dog Tips: During testing maintain a positive, upbeat and friendly attitude toward the puppies. Try to
get each puppy to interact with you to bring out the best in him or her. Make the test a pleasant experience
for the puppy.
5. Elevation Dominance - the tester cradles the puppy with both hands, supporting the puppy under its chest
and gently lifts it two feet off the ground and holds it there for 30 seconds.
6. Retrieving - the tester crouches beside the puppy and attracts its attention with a crumpled up piece of paper. When the puppy shows some interest, the tester throws the paper no more than four feet in front of the puppy encouraging it to retrieve the paper.
7. Touch Sensitivity - the tester locates the webbing of one the puppy’s front paws and presses it lightly between his index finger and thumb. The tester gradually increases pressure while counting to ten and stops when the puppy pulls away or shows signs of discomfort.
8. Sound Sensitivity - the puppy is placed in the center of the testing area and an assistant stationed at the perimeter makes a sharp noise, such as banging a metal spoon on the bottom of a metal pan.
9. Sight Sensitivity - the puppy is placed in the center of the testing area. The tester ties a string around a bath towel and jerks it across the floor, two feet away from the puppy.
10. Stability - an umbrella is opened about five feet from the puppy and gently placed on the ground.
SCORING THE RESULTS
Following are the responses you will see and the score assigned to each particular response. You will see some
variations and will have to make a judgment on what score to give them.
WHAT DO THE SCORES MEAN?
The scores are interpreted as follows:
Mostly 1’s -Strong desire to be pack leader and is not shy about bucking for a promotion. Has a predisposition to be aggressive to people and other dogs and will bite Should only be placed into a very experienced home where the dog will be trained and worked on a regular
basis
Top Dog Tips: Stay away from the puppy with a lot of 1’s or 2’s. It has lots of leadership aspirations and may
be difficult to manage. This puppy needs an experienced home. Not good with children.
Mostly 2’s -Also has leadership aspirations May be hard to manage and has the capacity to bite Has lots of self-confidence Should not be placed into an inexperienced home Too unruly to be good with children and elderly people, or other animals Needs strict schedule, loads of exercise and lots of training Has the potential to be a great show dog with someone who understands dog behavior
Mostly 3’s -Can be a high-energy dog and may need lots of exercise Good with people and other animals Can be a bit of a handful to live with
Needs training, does very well at it and learns quickly
Great dog for second time owner.
Mostly 4’s -The kind of dog that makes the perfect pet Best choice for the first time owner. Rarely will buck for a promotion in the family
Easy to train, and rather quiet. Good with elderly people, children, although may need protection from the children Choose this pup, take it to obedience classes, and you’ll be the star, without having to do too much work!
Tidbits: The puppy with mostly 3’s and 4’s can be quite a handful, but should be good with children and does
well with training. Energy needs to be dispersed with plenty of exercise.
Mostly 5’s -Fearful, shy and needs special handling Will run away at the slightest stress in its life Strange people, strange places, different floor or ground surfaces may upset it Often afraid of loud noises and terrified of thunder storms. When you greet it upon your return, may submissively urinate. Needs a very special home where the environment doesn’t change too much and where there are no children If cornered and cannot get away, has a tendency to bite
Top Dog Tips: Avoid the puppy with several 6’s. It is so independent it doesn’t need you or anyone. He is his
own person and unlikely to bond to you.
Mostly 6’s -So independent that he doesn’t need you or other people Doesn’t care if he is trained or not - he is his own person. Not likely to bond to you, since he doesn’t need you. A great guard dog for gas stations! Do not take this puppy and think you can change him into a lovable bundle - you can’t, so leave well enough alone.
INTERPRETING THE SCORES
Few puppies will test with all 2’s or all 3’s - there will be a mixture of scores. For that first time, wonderfully easy to train, potential star, look for a puppy that scores with mostly 4’s and 3’s. Don’t worry about the score on Touch Sensitivity - you can compensate for that with the right training equipment.
Tidbits: It’s hard not to become emotional when picking a puppy - they are all so cute, soft and cuddly. Remind yourself that this dog is going to be with you for 8 to 16 years. Don’t hesitate to step back a little to contemplate your decision. Sleep on it and review it in the light of day.
Avoid the puppy with a score of 1 on the Restraint and Elevation tests. This puppy will be too much for the first time owner.
It’s a lot more fun to have a good dog, one that is easy to train, one you can live with and one you can be proud of, than one that is a constant struggle.
Reprinted with Permission by Wendy Volhard
Wendy Volhard’s Puppy Aptitude Test © 1981, 2000, 2005
HOW TO TEST
Here are the ground rules for performing the test:
The testing is done in a location unfamiliar to the puppies. This does not mean they have to taken away from home. A 10-foot square area is perfectly adequate, such as a room in the house where the puppies have not been.
The puppies are tested one at a time.
• There are no other dogs or people, except the scorer and the tester, in the testing area
• The puppies do not know the tester.
• The scorer is a disinterested third party and not the person interested in selling you a puppy.
• The scorer is unobtrusive and positions him or herself so he or she can observe the puppies’ responses
without having to move.
• The puppies are tested before they are fed.
• The puppies are tested when they are at their liveliest.
• Do not try to test a puppy that is not feeling well.
• Puppies should not be tested the day of or the day after being vaccinated.
• Only the first response counts!
Top Dog Tips: During the test, watch the puppy’s tail. It will make a difference in the scoring whether the tail
is up or down.
The tests are simple to perform and anyone with some common sense can do them. You can, however, elicit
the help of someone who has tested puppies before and knows what they are doing.
1. Social attraction - the owner or caretaker of the puppies places it in the test area about four feet from the
tester and then leaves the test area. The tester kneels down and coaxes the puppy to come to him or her by
encouragingly and gently clapping hands and calling. The tester must coax the puppy in the opposite
direction from where it entered the test area. Hint: Lean backward, sitting on your heels instead of leaning
forward toward the puppy. Keep your hands close to your body encouraging the puppy to come to you
instead of trying to reach for the puppy.
2. Following - the tester stands up and slowly walks away encouraging the puppy to follow. Hint: Make sure
the puppy sees you walk away and get the puppy to focus on you by lightly clapping your hands and using
verbal encouragement to get the puppy to follow you. Do not lean over the puppy.
3. Restraint - the tester crouches down and gently rolls the puppy on its back and holds it on its back for 30
seconds. Hint: Hold the puppy down without applying too much pressure. The object is not to keep it on
its back but to test its response to being placed in that position.
4. Social Dominance - let the puppy stand up or sit and gently stroke it from the head to the back while you
crouch beside it. See if it will lick your face, an indication of a forgiving nature. Continue stroking until
you see a behavior you can score. Hint: When you crouch next to the puppy avoid leaning or hovering over
the puppy. Have the puppy at your side with both of you facing in the same direction.
Top Dog Tips: During testing maintain a positive, upbeat and friendly attitude toward the puppies. Try to
get each puppy to interact with you to bring out the best in him or her. Make the test a pleasant experience
for the puppy.
5. Elevation Dominance - the tester cradles the puppy with both hands, supporting the puppy under its chest
and gently lifts it two feet off the ground and holds it there for 30 seconds.
6. Retrieving - the tester crouches beside the puppy and attracts its attention with a crumpled up piece of paper. When the puppy shows some interest, the tester throws the paper no more than four feet in front of the puppy encouraging it to retrieve the paper.
7. Touch Sensitivity - the tester locates the webbing of one the puppy’s front paws and presses it lightly between his index finger and thumb. The tester gradually increases pressure while counting to ten and stops when the puppy pulls away or shows signs of discomfort.
8. Sound Sensitivity - the puppy is placed in the center of the testing area and an assistant stationed at the perimeter makes a sharp noise, such as banging a metal spoon on the bottom of a metal pan.
9. Sight Sensitivity - the puppy is placed in the center of the testing area. The tester ties a string around a bath towel and jerks it across the floor, two feet away from the puppy.
10. Stability - an umbrella is opened about five feet from the puppy and gently placed on the ground.
SCORING THE RESULTS
Following are the responses you will see and the score assigned to each particular response. You will see some
variations and will have to make a judgment on what score to give them.
WHAT DO THE SCORES MEAN?
The scores are interpreted as follows:
Mostly 1’s -Strong desire to be pack leader and is not shy about bucking for a promotion. Has a predisposition to be aggressive to people and other dogs and will bite Should only be placed into a very experienced home where the dog will be trained and worked on a regular
basis
Top Dog Tips: Stay away from the puppy with a lot of 1’s or 2’s. It has lots of leadership aspirations and may
be difficult to manage. This puppy needs an experienced home. Not good with children.
Mostly 2’s -Also has leadership aspirations May be hard to manage and has the capacity to bite Has lots of self-confidence Should not be placed into an inexperienced home Too unruly to be good with children and elderly people, or other animals Needs strict schedule, loads of exercise and lots of training Has the potential to be a great show dog with someone who understands dog behavior
Mostly 3’s -Can be a high-energy dog and may need lots of exercise Good with people and other animals Can be a bit of a handful to live with
Needs training, does very well at it and learns quickly
Great dog for second time owner.
Mostly 4’s -The kind of dog that makes the perfect pet Best choice for the first time owner. Rarely will buck for a promotion in the family
Easy to train, and rather quiet. Good with elderly people, children, although may need protection from the children Choose this pup, take it to obedience classes, and you’ll be the star, without having to do too much work!
Tidbits: The puppy with mostly 3’s and 4’s can be quite a handful, but should be good with children and does
well with training. Energy needs to be dispersed with plenty of exercise.
Mostly 5’s -Fearful, shy and needs special handling Will run away at the slightest stress in its life Strange people, strange places, different floor or ground surfaces may upset it Often afraid of loud noises and terrified of thunder storms. When you greet it upon your return, may submissively urinate. Needs a very special home where the environment doesn’t change too much and where there are no children If cornered and cannot get away, has a tendency to bite
Top Dog Tips: Avoid the puppy with several 6’s. It is so independent it doesn’t need you or anyone. He is his
own person and unlikely to bond to you.
Mostly 6’s -So independent that he doesn’t need you or other people Doesn’t care if he is trained or not - he is his own person. Not likely to bond to you, since he doesn’t need you. A great guard dog for gas stations! Do not take this puppy and think you can change him into a lovable bundle - you can’t, so leave well enough alone.
INTERPRETING THE SCORES
Few puppies will test with all 2’s or all 3’s - there will be a mixture of scores. For that first time, wonderfully easy to train, potential star, look for a puppy that scores with mostly 4’s and 3’s. Don’t worry about the score on Touch Sensitivity - you can compensate for that with the right training equipment.
Tidbits: It’s hard not to become emotional when picking a puppy - they are all so cute, soft and cuddly. Remind yourself that this dog is going to be with you for 8 to 16 years. Don’t hesitate to step back a little to contemplate your decision. Sleep on it and review it in the light of day.
Avoid the puppy with a score of 1 on the Restraint and Elevation tests. This puppy will be too much for the first time owner.
It’s a lot more fun to have a good dog, one that is easy to train, one you can live with and one you can be proud of, than one that is a constant struggle.